Evolution of Ancient Greek Hairstyles


Ancient Greek hairstyles changed as ancient Greece changed, reflecting the concerns and aspirations of its residents. Hairstyles meant something about the wearer’s age, taste, and hometown, but not much about their social class (except for slaves, whose hair was usually short). In their private lives, the Athenians were, according to Demosthenes, “severe and simple”, with little difference between how the highest and lowest citizens dressed, lived, or ate. In Sparta, men and women often went naked or with their chitons (white covering garments) open at the sides; the word “spartan” means an indifference to luxury, which was widespread in ancient Greece.

The Greek ideal of beauty was the same for men as it was for women: youth, detailed muscles, and naturally colored cheeks. In ancient art, men and women are drawn almost exactly the same, except for their breasts (when exposed). Many Greeks used substances like olive oil and honey to improve the appearance of their skin, while men spent much of their time in the gym. , where they exercised, wrestled, and chatted naked with other men.

Blonde hair was considered attractive, and both men and women bleached their hair with potassium water, in addition to drying it in the sun to achieve a blonder effect.

Makeup was used, although some considered it pretentious; many women used white lead to lighten their faces, and perhaps red pigment for blush and charcoal as eyeshadow. The heterae, the ancient Greek equivalent to the geisha or courtesan, sometimes wore makeup.

This androgyny led to a certain uniformity in hairstyle. Men and women wore their hair in long curls; it is not clear if her hair was naturally curly or if it was curled with thongs or similar implements. In a famous passage in Homer, Athena makes Odysseus’ hair flow down from his head in “hyacinth curls.” Therefore, we could deduce that these curls were natural, at least for a part of the native population.

women’s hairstyles

The position of women in ancient Greece was surprisingly low. Married women were isolated in their homes, not even allowed to socialize with other women, let alone other men. This could explain the relative indifference towards luxury in ancient Greek society.

The women wore their hair long and curly, sometimes braided, sometimes braided over the shoulders. After the defeat of Persia in 449 a. C., Eastern styles became less popular and women began to tie their hair in a knot or chignon at the nape of the neck, sometimes with a band or net around the head. Scarves and headbands were also available.

During the duel, women cut their hair short.

men’s hairstyles

The men grew their hair long. One boy cut his hair short (around the chin or jawline) when he reached adolescence, and stayed with a short haircut until he grew older and more distinguished.

The beard was also a mark of distinction and virility. Most of the young men were clean shaven, which was then a sign of effeminacy. However, shaving the upper lip was not uncommon. It was only when Alexander the Great ordered his soldiers to shave clean that the beard lost some of its grandeur; still, it was a mark of a philosopher or a sage.

There were a number of popular ancient Greek hairstyles, worn by both men and women: the krobylon was an updo hairstyle with the hair pulled back, tied, and pinned above the forehead; the Kepos, a bowl cut used for youths and slaves; the Tesida was a kind of protomullet short in front and long behind; the Hectorian was slicked back in curls.

Garlands and diadems were worn by eminent Greek leaders, including Alexander the Great, and prominent statesmen. A garland was usually placed on the head of a great man at his funeral.