Where is my hair? After graduating from cosmetology school, having a fundamental understanding of hair, I realized one day that my hair was different from my childhood hair, in density and length, and by length I mean not having any. Where was my hair? It was an undeniable question for so many friends, relatives, ladies in the supermarkets that surrounded me. If hair grows up to an inch per month if it’s healthy, why did so many have problems with hair growth? Most were getting relaxers so the main culprit had to be the chemical service and inadvertently unhealthy hair. Because I’m committed to overall hair health (and finding our hair), I went beyond theory and embarked on investigating the chemical underpinnings of the core product we so willingly slather on our heads every six to eight weeks. This discovery revealed seven key principles for healthy hair that are now the key concepts for achieving and maintaining healthy, beautiful natural hair.
1) The strength is in the curls. As I did my research, I began to understand that not all relaxers are created equal, nor are those who apply them with pinpoint precision or superior, professional skill sets every time. As a master stylist, I’ve encountered the most outrageous moments when stylists want to relax. I know you’ve heard, hopefully not aware, “your ends break (which is a serious hair challenge), so you need a straightener.” Does this sound logical? The hair is falling out, so put a chemical on it. Ironically, damaged ends are a direct sign of unhealthy hair.
2) Precise cuts can help retain hair’s moisture, length and strength. Physical changes such as brushing, combing, blow-drying, and ceramic styling and setting can affect hair from shaft to ends. Improper handling of everyday tools could be a factor in how often one needs a trim, but the bigger point is that hair like a garden needs to be pruned (trimmed) to grow and flourish. Ongoing research showed that the strength is in the curls – this resonated with me so I made it my motto. The closer the hair is to its natural state, the healthier, purer and stronger the hair will be. Therefore, the best potential for healthy hair is found in its natural state. This revelation jumpstarted my search for the best way to maintain natural hair. Maintenance is the constant issue that most customers seem to struggle with when they go the natural route. I understand that clients don’t want to worry about their style transforming due to humidity or heat in the middle of the day, dull, dry tresses, or social isolation from wearing a certain style.
3) One of these is not like the other. As Director of Product Performance, I realized through research that hair could function well, be maintained, and achieve optimal health using chemical-free ceramic fusion. These oxymoronic components could not coexist; it was an easy decision to stop relaxing. If you can get the best hair health (I found our hair!) without chemicals, then the no-brainer was not to relax.
4) More than an Iron and a Brush. Ceramic fusion is used by many stylists, which is not new to the beauty industry. However, the Ceramic Fusion natural hair smoothing technique infuses moisture, seals cuticles and controls texture without damaging hair like Marcel flat irons and pressure combs.
5) Steam Therapy, a custom conditioning treatment that combines multiple conditioners to balance, detangle, hydrate, protect, and strengthen natural hair, is a must in this process. This technique is more than just grabbing a brush and using an ionic hair dryer; there must be a correct stratification of the products and the proper use of the tools. The revelation of success is in the actual technique, consistency and knowledge of the technique.
6) Mild, semi-permanent hair color provides the safest, most chemically sound method of coloring any type of hair without over-processing. I think every woman has tried to achieve ladylike color in the box with one-application permanent color kits. , only to find our hair dry and brittle and watch the color turn brassy or muddy. Not quite the look or feel we envision. Deposit color enhances natural tones by creating depth, shine and vibrancy. Using semi-permanents, permanents, lighteners (bleach) and even henna (the mythically safe dye) can cause the pH level to rise too high, causing hair breakage.
7) A new hair. Since chemicals were part of the problem with unhealthy hair, it makes sense to use a product line to better serve natural clients. A hair and scalp analysis should be done to understand the historical and current state of your hair and scalp beyond an educated guess. This is necessary to determine what challenge and/or condition a client may have, such as dryness, flaking, oiliness, or perhaps dermatitis. Knowing this hair background will give the stylist the opportunity to customize a cleanser and conditioner that best suits the specific needs of the hair. The four goals of custom cleansers and conditioners should be: Remove residue, Restore balance, Lock in moisture, and Build strength. And you thought you only needed cleansers to remove buildup from hair products and conditioners to smooth.
Natural hair has gotten a bad rap based on fear, inadequate regular and routine maintenance, and stigma, but now you know the seven secrets to help anyone who wants it have beautiful, healthy natural hair. Many are simply unaware of what constitutes beautiful hair. Hair must be healthy to be beautiful. And your hair is healthier in its natural state. Discredit everything you’ve been told. You, yes, you can have beautiful and natural hair using the right techniques and tools: Enrich. Authorize. Educate.